Super helpful post Jack, thank you! I had blight a couple of years ago that took out my whole crop. This year, I spotted one that *might* have had the start of blight (but could also have been heat stress as you point out above) - regardless I ripped it out and the rest seem to be ok! Regarding crop rotation, I don't have a big enough growing space to rotate on any more than probably a 2 year cycle. Is this ok? And does the whole bed have to be rotated, or could you e.g. move brassicas from one end of a 3m bed to the other, and count this as crop rotation? Thanks as always for your helpful windom ☺️
That’s a good question as lots of people will be in your position. In a small bed you could argue there’s no point rotating but I’d say it’s still worth mixing things up a bit. And I would do this because of the soil: 1) nutrients in it and 2) what’s living in it.
Point 1) doesn’t matter so much if you are adding compost as a mulch every year. Point 2) for me the main things will be carrot rootfly, slugs and club root. By rotating the root veg it can help a bit with the rootfly. Club root in a small be probsbly makes little difference but I’d still move the brassicas from one end to the other. Though perhaps after two years, so you get a two year gap in that spot?
I know many wouldn’t bother doing any of this. But I would I think.
Thanks so much - super helpful. I have a couple of 3m beds so do have the option of a "proper" rotation, but just not a full five year one as I only have the choice of two spots (unless I make use of each separate end of the beds as you suggest!) Thanks a lot ☺️
I think the main thing with rotations when it comes to issues like carrotfly is the length of time between growing the crop to try and reduce their population. So I’d be tempted to grow the same thing two of three years in a row and then swap the beds. Giving the bed two or three years without carrots, lowering the population in the off year.
Hi Lee, yes definitely I would plant them apart from each other, perhaps in an area that’s not part of your rotation if you can. I would also remove all the others first and give it a couple of weeks before planting for some gap. Otherwise as soon as the shoots come up the likelihood is they will get it.
Interesting question it will be good to know how you get on.
One of my many tomato plants has it and I’ve noticed that the affected tomatoes take on a milky hue before any signs of blight
Have you noticed this Jack? 🤔
I’m in Bournemouth Dorset 😊
Hi Dayle, I haven’t but I will look for this. I guess I notice the tomatoes just start to look sickly which might be the same thing I guess.
Super helpful post Jack, thank you! I had blight a couple of years ago that took out my whole crop. This year, I spotted one that *might* have had the start of blight (but could also have been heat stress as you point out above) - regardless I ripped it out and the rest seem to be ok! Regarding crop rotation, I don't have a big enough growing space to rotate on any more than probably a 2 year cycle. Is this ok? And does the whole bed have to be rotated, or could you e.g. move brassicas from one end of a 3m bed to the other, and count this as crop rotation? Thanks as always for your helpful windom ☺️
Hi Alice,
That’s a good question as lots of people will be in your position. In a small bed you could argue there’s no point rotating but I’d say it’s still worth mixing things up a bit. And I would do this because of the soil: 1) nutrients in it and 2) what’s living in it.
Point 1) doesn’t matter so much if you are adding compost as a mulch every year. Point 2) for me the main things will be carrot rootfly, slugs and club root. By rotating the root veg it can help a bit with the rootfly. Club root in a small be probsbly makes little difference but I’d still move the brassicas from one end to the other. Though perhaps after two years, so you get a two year gap in that spot?
I know many wouldn’t bother doing any of this. But I would I think.
Jack
Thanks so much - super helpful. I have a couple of 3m beds so do have the option of a "proper" rotation, but just not a full five year one as I only have the choice of two spots (unless I make use of each separate end of the beds as you suggest!) Thanks a lot ☺️
I think the main thing with rotations when it comes to issues like carrotfly is the length of time between growing the crop to try and reduce their population. So I’d be tempted to grow the same thing two of three years in a row and then swap the beds. Giving the bed two or three years without carrots, lowering the population in the off year.
Jack, if there’s been blight in the potato patch, and if you were planting potatoes now for an Xmas harvest would you advise using a different bed?
Hi Lee, yes definitely I would plant them apart from each other, perhaps in an area that’s not part of your rotation if you can. I would also remove all the others first and give it a couple of weeks before planting for some gap. Otherwise as soon as the shoots come up the likelihood is they will get it.
Interesting question it will be good to know how you get on.
Jack